The Day Hobie Made Nixon a Surfboard(surfer.com)
surfer.com
The Day Hobie Made Nixon a Surfboard
https://www.surfer.com/culture/the-day-hobie-made-nixon-a-surfboard
2 comments
Surfing exploded in the 10 years becasue of the 100 dollar wavestorm. The hobby is too accessible imo.
The used board market is terrible for resell. $900+ sell for 2-300 used. I was able to hagle an album down to 600.
I bummed around and surfed all day for recently. It's a lot of ppl with roommates, restaurant workers, construction.
The used board market is terrible for resell. $900+ sell for 2-300 used. I was able to hagle an album down to 600.
I bummed around and surfed all day for recently. It's a lot of ppl with roommates, restaurant workers, construction.
Are there any hobbies/activities that aren't constantly moving upmarket? I am having trouble thinking of any.
I've thought about this a lot. Across a all of my hobbies I've seen shrinking markets, decreasing sales, fewer consumers, decreased companies in the space.. and offset by higher prices and longer product cycles.
1) I think it's partially a time thing. You read economists vision of the future back 50-75 years ago and they imagined automation would give us more leisure time.
In practice there's a bifurcation with the K shaped economy where a lot of white collar jobs have become more time demanding (nights/weekends) such that we have a lot more money but even less time. So more than ever before, we try to by shortcuts to time/happiness with money. I find I have a lot of trouble finding long blocks of time to spend uninterrupted on my hobbies.
2) Along with this society has become ever more consumeristic. I note that across my friends and acquaintances, it doesn't strike me that many even.. have hobbies. Hobbies are almost an oddity now.
1&2 conflate to make for a lot of hobbyist GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) such that people spend more time reading/watching reviews/shopping/trading gear than they do actually doing their hobbies. Its a lot easier to spend 30min during my lunch break shopping for some accessories than it is to get away from my desk and actually do my hobby.
1) I think it's partially a time thing. You read economists vision of the future back 50-75 years ago and they imagined automation would give us more leisure time.
In practice there's a bifurcation with the K shaped economy where a lot of white collar jobs have become more time demanding (nights/weekends) such that we have a lot more money but even less time. So more than ever before, we try to by shortcuts to time/happiness with money. I find I have a lot of trouble finding long blocks of time to spend uninterrupted on my hobbies.
2) Along with this society has become ever more consumeristic. I note that across my friends and acquaintances, it doesn't strike me that many even.. have hobbies. Hobbies are almost an oddity now.
1&2 conflate to make for a lot of hobbyist GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) such that people spend more time reading/watching reviews/shopping/trading gear than they do actually doing their hobbies. Its a lot easier to spend 30min during my lunch break shopping for some accessories than it is to get away from my desk and actually do my hobby.
I read something once that said there’s 4 main modes for interacting with any hobby: doing the thing, talking about doing the thing, collecting gear for doing the thing, and talking about gear for doing the thing
I grew up in a small town near four corners and as a pre-teen and teen during the summers I probably spent every 3rd night outdoors, hiking to some new place in the backcountry. I didn't have money and sure didn't have "gear". Outdoors stuff, which used to be a basically fiscally free hobby, has somehow turned into one of the most expensive hobbies one can get into. I've sometimes fallen victim to the latter three points and try to constantly remind myself that I used to do backpacking trips with nothing but a canteen, box of matches, a few cans of beans or soup, and jeans.
Somewhat related to that, I find it absurd that my wife and children need to track down their water bottles anytime we go anywhere out of the house. It really takes an extra 5 to 10 minutes to leave because invariably at least one of the children has lost his bottle. We could just be going to a grocery store, but they have to have hydration.
The only time I ever had a water bottle as a child was when I was playing soccer. We got one water break after our endurance run at the beginning and one halfway through practice. Didn't have one when I was playing baseball. Didn't have one when I was on the golf team, unless it was blistering hot out. Never brought one for day-hikes. Just showed up and did whatever and maybe stopped at a public water fountain on the way out.
I don't want them to be uncomfortable, this isn't a "back in my day, we suffered, and we liked it" sort of post. I should have had water for more of those activities (well, not baseball, it's not a real sport sorrynotsorryyouknowit'strue). I just wish they had a little more perspective on when we really need to stock up on provisions for an excursion and would not add a 10 minute delay to a trip that should take 30 minutes.
The only time I ever had a water bottle as a child was when I was playing soccer. We got one water break after our endurance run at the beginning and one halfway through practice. Didn't have one when I was playing baseball. Didn't have one when I was on the golf team, unless it was blistering hot out. Never brought one for day-hikes. Just showed up and did whatever and maybe stopped at a public water fountain on the way out.
I don't want them to be uncomfortable, this isn't a "back in my day, we suffered, and we liked it" sort of post. I should have had water for more of those activities (well, not baseball, it's not a real sport sorrynotsorryyouknowit'strue). I just wish they had a little more perspective on when we really need to stock up on provisions for an excursion and would not add a 10 minute delay to a trip that should take 30 minutes.
Yes, I have no interest in backpacking/camping at all, but every time I walk by a Snow Peak I want to buy the entire store and take up the hobby.
This is brilliant and absolutely describes my personal experience. I think the “doing the thing” can also be broken down into subcategories of “doing the thing with the thing” and “keeping the thing working to do the thing”. My hobbies are motorcycles and pinball machines. They both require significant maintenance time, to the point that alone could be a hobby.
I heard it described as: motorcycle riding actually consists of two hobbies, riding and maintenance. Most people can't afford to only participate in the riding.
I think each riding maintenence have their own four quadrents.
I think each riding maintenence have their own four quadrents.
Having thought about this a bit more I think hobbies are recursive.
I buy a motorcycle. I talk about the motorcycle. I ride the motorcycle. Riding motorcycles is a hobby now.
The motorcycle needs maintenance. I talk about the maintenance. I do the maintenance. Motorcycle maintenance is a hobby mow.
A part is unavailable. I talk about making the part. I buy a welder. I make the part. Welding is a hobby now.
I buy a motorcycle. I talk about the motorcycle. I ride the motorcycle. Riding motorcycles is a hobby now.
The motorcycle needs maintenance. I talk about the maintenance. I do the maintenance. Motorcycle maintenance is a hobby mow.
A part is unavailable. I talk about making the part. I buy a welder. I make the part. Welding is a hobby now.
This is spot on, and also its worth noting there are different time/energy requirements for each of these modes.
I can text my friend in the same hobby randomly throughout the day, listen to gear reviews while I do some rote work, and shop for accessories on my lunch break.
But depending on the hobby, I might need a solid 1-2 hour block of time to really get into actually doing anything. Some are even worse if setup/cleanup or any travel is involved. And for some hobbies daylight & weather must cooperate.
I can text my friend in the same hobby randomly throughout the day, listen to gear reviews while I do some rote work, and shop for accessories on my lunch break.
But depending on the hobby, I might need a solid 1-2 hour block of time to really get into actually doing anything. Some are even worse if setup/cleanup or any travel is involved. And for some hobbies daylight & weather must cooperate.
Another thought this triggered for me, related to photo:
A lot of hobbies as they digitize have moved to having 0 OpEx but much higher CapEx.
Photography for example, bodies/lenses didn't change much for 10-20 years, and didn't cost that much. There was recurring expense for film/dev/prints that scaled with your usage, and arguably you could GAS out on those smaller purchases.
In the film era for reference, you had Nikon F 1959, F2 1971, F3 1980, F4 1988, F5 1996, F6 2004. The entire film era Nikon had 6 flagships in 45 years! You could use the same camera for 20 years and only be maybe 1~2 generations behind at the end! There just wasn't much to upgrade to.
With digital bodies cost a ton, and even as we've slowed advancement.. you still get a new flagship body every 3-4 years (down from as little as 2 years in the early Sony A7 days). Some is tech advancement but a lot of it is parcelling out improvements sparingly cycle by cycle to try to drive sales in our modern higher consumption era.
Photography for example, bodies/lenses didn't change much for 10-20 years, and didn't cost that much. There was recurring expense for film/dev/prints that scaled with your usage, and arguably you could GAS out on those smaller purchases.
In the film era for reference, you had Nikon F 1959, F2 1971, F3 1980, F4 1988, F5 1996, F6 2004. The entire film era Nikon had 6 flagships in 45 years! You could use the same camera for 20 years and only be maybe 1~2 generations behind at the end! There just wasn't much to upgrade to.
With digital bodies cost a ton, and even as we've slowed advancement.. you still get a new flagship body every 3-4 years (down from as little as 2 years in the early Sony A7 days). Some is tech advancement but a lot of it is parcelling out improvements sparingly cycle by cycle to try to drive sales in our modern higher consumption era.
Yes, that’s it, thank you for finding it!
"hobbyist GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) such that people spend more time reading/watching reviews/shopping/trading gear than they do actually doing their hobbies. "
That's a huge problem for photographers and bikers. Much easier and less time and effort consuming to buy nice gear than to actually use it.
That's a huge problem for photographers and bikers. Much easier and less time and effort consuming to buy nice gear than to actually use it.
It's hugely problematic for both for likely the same reason - daylight and climate.
I have 20+ years of metadata on my photo catalog and it's funny how seasonal it is for me living in the northeast. For years I would try dabbling in things like macro and birding just to do SOMETHING in the long cold season, but it's always been a waste of money for me.
Meanwhile I've started dabbling in music and the fact I can just spin my chair over to my other desk, regardless of time/light/temprature and get on with it is very freeing.
I have 20+ years of metadata on my photo catalog and it's funny how seasonal it is for me living in the northeast. For years I would try dabbling in things like macro and birding just to do SOMETHING in the long cold season, but it's always been a waste of money for me.
Meanwhile I've started dabbling in music and the fact I can just spin my chair over to my other desk, regardless of time/light/temprature and get on with it is very freeing.
Automation did give us more leisure time. It's just unevenly distributed!
I want to say either woodworking or recreational drug use, but I don't know enough about either to be sure.
Surfing and warehouse lofts both depend on access to specific chunks of land that are in high demand. The thought of "bumming it" on a beach is hilarious to me. Beaches are all owned by rich folks.
Actually, considering how fucked up the US housing market is, most people can't get into woodworking because they live in little apartments with no garages... you'd have to belong to a makerspace or something. Ironically I once belonged to a makerspace in a warehouse-turned-bohemian-arts building
Surfing and warehouse lofts both depend on access to specific chunks of land that are in high demand. The thought of "bumming it" on a beach is hilarious to me. Beaches are all owned by rich folks.
Actually, considering how fucked up the US housing market is, most people can't get into woodworking because they live in little apartments with no garages... you'd have to belong to a makerspace or something. Ironically I once belonged to a makerspace in a warehouse-turned-bohemian-arts building
> Beaches are all owned by rich folks
Thread-relevantly: Not in California! All beaches are public, although some self-important transplants like to argue a right to restrict access. Vinod Khosla is one such transplant.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_Coastal_Commission
Thread-relevantly: Not in California! All beaches are public, although some self-important transplants like to argue a right to restrict access. Vinod Khosla is one such transplant.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_Coastal_Commission
Beach bumming is still alive and well in Australia. There's thousands and thousands of miles of beach, all of it public, and while local councils try to clamp down on people living in vans, there's only so much they can do.
How about beach bunning near good surf spots? A bum must entertain themselves after all.
I feel like most hobbies are cheap or free:
- Reading (libraries)
- Exercising (e.g., running, hiking, swimming - depending on pool / beach access -, joining a group of friends who play basketball, etc...)
- Playing video games (e.g., buy Factorio and play if for years)
- Working on personal projects (e.g., writing, coding, etc...)
There are more expensive hobbies, but even then they can often be done cheaply, e.g., though climbing is generally pricey, some gyms are surprisingly cheap, etc...
- Reading (libraries)
- Exercising (e.g., running, hiking, swimming - depending on pool / beach access -, joining a group of friends who play basketball, etc...)
- Playing video games (e.g., buy Factorio and play if for years)
- Working on personal projects (e.g., writing, coding, etc...)
There are more expensive hobbies, but even then they can often be done cheaply, e.g., though climbing is generally pricey, some gyms are surprisingly cheap, etc...
It seems that swimming is the most resistant to gear acquisition syndrome. I can't imagine swimmers can spend much time obsessing over fancy swimsuits or goggles. There's nothing to do but get in the water and swim.
Maybe basketball? If you have access to a public court then it doesn't cost much. We still see some top NBA draft picks who grew up relatively poor, without access to expensive equipment or private coaching. The equipment makes less difference in basketball than almost any other sport.
Over time new knees amd such get expensive
Disc Golf holding steady I suspect.
Yes, but they're the ones that are hard to talk about because they necessarily remained unpopular.
Collecting beanie babies?
Collecting beanie babies?
Freakbike building is one, although rather niche :)
Skateboarding?
I figure BMX might count although I'm disconnected from that scene for some years. I think it had to survive getting big and commercial before money moved on to other (bigger) things.
Yeah, I would say skateboarding or rollerblading. Probably slacklining as well.
Meditation, until the apps I guess
In the mid-70s we'd play soccer at a school overlooking the western White House.
Corky Carroll played concerts at my elementary school auditorium and we'd buy lobster from the shop across from Hobie's and have birthday parties on the beach at Dana Point harbor and camp at Doheny State Beach for summer vacation, going to grunion runs, and driving down to San Onofre to body surf at Trestles.
We never saw Nixon near the fence, but we looked a lot and imagined he might be there watching us play.
Corky Carroll played concerts at my elementary school auditorium and we'd buy lobster from the shop across from Hobie's and have birthday parties on the beach at Dana Point harbor and camp at Doheny State Beach for summer vacation, going to grunion runs, and driving down to San Onofre to body surf at Trestles.
We never saw Nixon near the fence, but we looked a lot and imagined he might be there watching us play.
Cottons is the break directly in front of Casa Pacifica. It's a long, easy peeling left-hander (meaning: looking at it from the beach, the wave curl moves from left to right as the wave breaks). I've surfed there several times. It's so amusing to imagine President Nixon pacing around in the house atop the cliff with a bunch of dirty hippies riding the waves below.
The history of surfing in this area is fascinating and drastically different from today. In 1960, when this story takes place, surfing was deeply counterculture. You could live in a beach shack in Southern California on bum's income — many people did. Although surfing originated in Hawaii, Southern California modernized it. "The Endless Summer" perfectly captures the flavor of this era of surfing and is well worth watching even for non-surfers.
Orange County birthed the modern surfboard, constructed with a stiff fiberglass and resin outer shell (the "glass") and foam interior (the "blank"). This construction technique was adapted from methods used by OC's aerospace defense contractors. It's perfect symmetry: the crew-cut engineers working on missiles and fighter jets, trading construction techniques with beatnik hippies trying to find a better waveriding vehicle. Nixon was hilariously in the geographic center of this intersection.
In the decades since then, the sport of surfing has moved monotonically upmarket. Today, if you're surfing in the U.S.A, you're wealthy. A lot of white collar desk workers started surfing in 2020, easier to get in the water if you work an email job. It's similar to living in an old warehouse in Tribeca NYC -- in the good old days it was the cheapest lifestyle you could live; today you pay for the privilege.