I see it just as an acknowledgement that I might not want there to be any possible cross-purposes of incentives in my own health.
Doctor's don't need to consciously change their behavior for there to be a difference in care. It's just that incentives are like really awesomely powerful things.
It seems like you are saying that the wine's qualities and how they pair with the food are very important. I don't think anyone would disagree.
The question at hand is whether a cheap/expensive wine, of the same type, would matter in the boar stew example.
Personally, I have no reason to believe that a more expensive wine would only shine under these types of conditions. I also think it's a matter of subjective taste, and there is no arguing matters of taste ;).
From the non-oenophile POV, my objection is the pretension of objectivity. "This wine is better than the other one" is a subjective statement masquerading as an objective one.
Doctor's don't need to consciously change their behavior for there to be a difference in care. It's just that incentives are like really awesomely powerful things.