Turkey did it some years ago (2005). Removed six zeroes and named it something like “new lira”. Then named it back to “lira” after most of the old money is out of circulation.
20 years later, I think some more zeroes are available to be removed :)
And if it’s the very first gen of the Leaf, then, as far as I know, they don’t have thermal management for the batteries. So it greatly stresses them both for discharge and charge and that manifests as reduced capacity.
Lithium cells are happy when they are around 20-25 degrees Celsius (about 75F?) but they don’t enjoy when it’s hot or cold. Likewise, they don’t enjoy full charges and discharges which I’d guess more probable in a smaller range car.
All in all, the first gen Leaf might not be a good benchmark for a more modern EV. Many things should be better now.
I think that applies to many other electronics they sell too. I find them pretty well engineered overall.
My guess is that it’s because they sell any particular piece of hardware in millions and it’s in their best interest to design it properly so they don’t have to deal with the returns.
Interesting approach. I have a feeling that this is intended for sparsely built houses (the typical american housing maybe?) since in a dense European city I’d imagine it would pick up tons of cell phone signals from other people in their own homes or, say, from people visiting the downstairs coffee shop terrace.
You can but it isn’t efficient. You lose (V_in - V_out)*I_led Watts to heat if you use a linear regulator.
You might ask why not connect them in series and get the voltage difference as small as possible. But the “forward voltages” of LEDs are highly temperature dependent and car battery voltage is (somewhat) engine rpm dependent (might swing between 12 and 13.8V between no rpm and some rpm. It’s kept flat at 13.8V)
They might turn off/block egr which reintroduces exhaust gasses to intake to reduce combustion temperature. The upside of this system is that it reduces NOx emissions, the downside is that you’re bringing a lot of soot inside the engine. They are abrasive.
Combine egr with pcv, which directs positive crankcase pressure into the intake, you get an oily sooty mixture caking inside the intake.
Combine this with swirl flaps, which create a small tornado at lower engine speeds for better combustion, you get caking on the flaps and your intake becomes halfway clogged.
These are my annoyances. But to be honest, it didn’t require cleaning even after 250.000 kilometers of driving. I saw the caking while doing some other work, but the engine was running fine
But there’s also the dpf, and the adblue stuff. Dpf is an issue only if you use wrong kind of oil and clog it. I’m assuming people remove the dpf to run coal, as it will get clogged extremely fast if you detune your engine. It might also be an annoyance if you want to mod the engine, but not sure on that front. And adblue is yet another thing to fill every now and then. No experience with that, but I assume it might annoy some.
Pretty benign until an idiot holds a small piece of sheet metal in one hand and drills it with the other. Guess how I know :)
To my defense, I put a bit of wood between the metal and my hand to prevent drilling my hand but little did I know how the drill catches the steel on the very last part of the cut.
I use both kinds very frequently so I can comment on this. The main difference is that SLA strength is more uniform and FDM strength is very directional.
And the strength of the output is highly dependent on the material for both printers. The typical resin is extremely brittle, but rather heat resistant. But you can get flexible or tough material which are both less brittle but also less rigid.
So to answer your question: not necessarily :) nylon-like SLA materials are pretty good for usable everyday items if you don't mind the slight fidelity losses (still better than FDM)
We have multiple form 3 printers at work too, and they are very slow! It takes an hour to automatically fill the resin tank (which I cheat by pouring myself) and supply costs are ridiculous. But I really like the rather consistent output quality and their software is awesome.
My comparisons are against my own printer, anycubic photon mono. I can get a new printer with the same price of a bottle of formlabs material :)
Part of the reason is the compliance requirements. You need to pay quite a bit of money to USB-IF if you want to make anything USB and this is recurring as far as I know. There's also the other things like tests for EMC and ESD and whatnot. It either needs a big player to step up (you can use the same USB-IF membership for some tens of thousands of devices) or there should be a big enough market to support a smaller scale designer/manufacturer.
There’s also the self discharge aspect of things: cells lose energy even if you draw no current at all. This is dependent on many things including chemistry, quality, buildup, temperature and whatnot. I am not including lithium batteries (not bare cells) which need to have some kind of protection circuitry that also draws a bit of power.
It changes resistance. My dad had an old, full mechanical/hydraulic automatic car and it was an extremely visible feeling from the throttle pedal when it changed gears or when it engaged the extra clutch (it had torque converter and some extra clutch on top of it for fuel efficiency)
The sound of the engine also changes greatly depending on the throttle position and engine load but for me it was more audible and I couldn’t feel it from the throttle. Modern cars are pretty good with sound insulation from the engine, but I’ve heard some “sporty” cars direct the intake sound to the cabin for giving the noisy sports car experience to the driver without being obnoxious with the exhaust side.
The throttle feeling of a cable operated throttle is more about how much air the engine wants to breathe. I’d say it’s kinda still related to rpm, but it might be a completely different feeling on a turbo engine, that I haven’t experienced.
Two things; modern HID or laser or LED headlights should have the auto adjustment, so just jump to the second paragraph if you have one of these. But halogens can be adjusted usually from inside. They tend to have adjustment buttons to compensate for load (situation might be different for US cars, I’ve seen this with EU cars). This could be easier place to get started.
The manual adjustment is also very easy :) there are some screws on your headlight assembly that you need to rotate. It is different for different cars, though. So I’d suggest referring to YouTube for your own car’s adjustments.
One of mine is microvision, but the other one had a different brand (I don’t remember the brand though). But they are exactly the same machines except the text on them. The VGA accessory works perfectly with both.
Regarding the image quality, both getting the screen closer (I.e. having a smaller screen) or going farther from it helped. What also helped was the location of text! It is better in top and bottom but worse in the center because of the unique way it works: the mirrors swing in a resonant fashion. So there are more horizontal scan lines towards the minima and maxima of the vertical scan sine. It is a really brilliant technology overall!
Watching movies in the woods from distance, it was quite decent. The contrast is pretty good since black is actually black, very unlike lcd-based projectors. It didn’t have enough white for some scenes but we were watching dark horror stuff anyway :)
I hope they could eventually make it scan faster or get better timing to overcome the downsides.
I have two of the microvision ones and I can tell you the reason: they have to scan to draw and that makes everything look very wobbly. It isn’t something you can clearly see but it is stil somehow visible (through peripheral vision I suppose). It makes looking at still images and text very tiring.
Theoretically you can make it scan faster and that’ll fix it, but there’s probably more to it than just faster scanning.
I think you’re right. Leaded additive is an octane enhancer to prevent knocking but it’s also good for valve seats and whatnot. That’s the bit what makes it difficult to just switch to other octane enhancers as far as I know.
One side has a magnet, and it firmly attaches the base board (steel). But the other side just has the pogo and is fixed there just by the weight of the thing. It works good if there's enough "bite" and the rest of the system applies force the right way. If not, we'll, it slides off.
In my case for example, it is excellent for test points but somewhat challenging with soldered SMD component pads and very challenging if the density is high.
Only couple of times per year I drive those kind of distances myself, but I’d say the main benefit comes for “derating”. In other words, you can buy a 900 mile range car, and can travel 400 miles in Lapland winter (batteries don’t like cold, and self heating uses battery capacity). So you can drive to a place ~150miles away and back without thinking about destination charging, plus some reserve. This system would also last longer since you’re not forced a full charge cycle every day -> less aging.
Surely not an issue if you can have multiple cars. One can just have a diesel car for longer trips and have a small electric city car for everyday trips.
20 years later, I think some more zeroes are available to be removed :)