How dried fish is made in Iceland(icelandmonitor.mbl.is)
icelandmonitor.mbl.is
How dried fish is made in Iceland
https://icelandmonitor.mbl.is/news/eat_and_drink/2019/06/12/how_dried_fish_is_made/
18 comments
I’m first-generation and my family is Nigerian, and while I personally don’t eat the heads, we do entire dried fish quite a bit. Locally, we refer to it as “oporoko,” and it’s primarily imported from
Norway, rather than Iceland, as another commenter has mentioned. It’s also very widely available in African and Nigerian food stores in the United States.
Similar to the what’s said in the link another commenter posted, I would say it is one of my favorite foods.
Similar to the what’s said in the link another commenter posted, I would say it is one of my favorite foods.
The roots of their demand are somewhat tragic:
https://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-42137476
https://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-42137476
Skip to the bottom few paragraphs if you want to get straight to the reason.
In Iceland they also eat the heads, it's a local delicacy, I would caution against it.
I'm Icelandic and my mom eats _everything_. Yet, I've never heard of anyone eating cod heads. Do you have a source?
[I'm also Icelandic] when people say they eat "cod heads" they usually don't mean you eat the head whole, although it's also boiled for e.g. broth or stew. They usually mean that they eat the cheeks and tongue of the fish, and sometimes the eyes.
This is a delicacy in Iceland (gellur & kinnar) and I'm surprised you haven't heard of it., you've been missing out. Here's a video of a fishmonger (in Icelandic, but it mostly speaks for itself) extracting the two. Gellur (tounge) at around 1m30s, kinnar (cheeks) at 3m50s: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcmHCoMQ01c
The cheek or other head tissue on the fish is usually the most delicious. On cods the cheeks are particularly big, but on most fish there's a small and tender cheek muscle you can easily get to.
Fun story: I was once at a wedding in Singapore where they served fish, and all the ethnic Chinese there were getting the whole fish including the head, but the waiters were serving all the foreigners (mostly Europeans) fillets. The natives were shocked and impressed when I asked for what they were having, and proceeded to eat edible parts of the head, including e.g. the eyes.
I had to explain that Iceland was a bit unusual as European cuisine goes, and much closer to the Chinese tradition of not needlessly throwing away useful food just because it looks odd.
This is a delicacy in Iceland (gellur & kinnar) and I'm surprised you haven't heard of it., you've been missing out. Here's a video of a fishmonger (in Icelandic, but it mostly speaks for itself) extracting the two. Gellur (tounge) at around 1m30s, kinnar (cheeks) at 3m50s: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcmHCoMQ01c
The cheek or other head tissue on the fish is usually the most delicious. On cods the cheeks are particularly big, but on most fish there's a small and tender cheek muscle you can easily get to.
Fun story: I was once at a wedding in Singapore where they served fish, and all the ethnic Chinese there were getting the whole fish including the head, but the waiters were serving all the foreigners (mostly Europeans) fillets. The natives were shocked and impressed when I asked for what they were having, and proceeded to eat edible parts of the head, including e.g. the eyes.
I had to explain that Iceland was a bit unusual as European cuisine goes, and much closer to the Chinese tradition of not needlessly throwing away useful food just because it looks odd.
You're right! I have had "Gellur". Didn't really think about where they came from though. :-)
Can you provide a comparison if possible to other types of food; I have that typical Westerner squeamishness towards the idea of eating fish "heads"
The smell and texture were such that I felt an urgent need to temporarily become a vegetarian. But one other HN'er was present at that dinner and gave in to peer pressure, maybe he'll chime in.
Same in the Philippines. The smell will drive non-Filipino's out of the area. The locals love it, but I never heard of such a thing before arriving here.
Depends on the fishhead. One of the best meals of my life involved lingcod cheeks at the Tjoruhusid in Isafjordur, Iceland.
If you can imagine the difference between leavened bread and non-yeasted bread - it's a bit like that. The cheeks specifically were lighter, fluffier, and more buttery in comparison to the otherwise delicious but more dense fillet.
If you can imagine the difference between leavened bread and non-yeasted bread - it's a bit like that. The cheeks specifically were lighter, fluffier, and more buttery in comparison to the otherwise delicious but more dense fillet.
I love Fish Cheeks!
I don't usually eat fish that are big enough to have big meaty ones but even on tiny fish they're amazing and usually worth the effort to dig em out. Even on Salmon its worth it.
I don't usually eat fish that are big enough to have big meaty ones but even on tiny fish they're amazing and usually worth the effort to dig em out. Even on Salmon its worth it.
Cheeks seem to be the best part across a wide variety of animals - both fish and mammal.
I actually worked one summer doing exactly that, back when I was 15. Without any doubt, the absolute worst job I've had. I'd previously worked summers in my uncle's _fresh_ fish processing and that was totally fine. The stuff we were racking and drying at that other place though was anything but fresh. Ugh, the textures, the smells, it's all coming back to me... Kinda hard to reconcile that as a delicacy.
It sure was formative though. All uphill from there, haha.
It sure was formative though. All uphill from there, haha.
The old joke about "knowing how the sausage is made" is also true about drying fish.
I just watched a fascinating video on 18th century cooking where this same kind of fish (cod) is prepared: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdzAt6e1l-c
I thought the step where they beat the fish with a mallet was so wild. It's certainly led me down a rabbit hole of seeing how we used to prepare food a few hundred years ago.
I thought the step where they beat the fish with a mallet was so wild. It's certainly led me down a rabbit hole of seeing how we used to prepare food a few hundred years ago.
Stockfish has been the main ingredient of a very traditional plate in north east Italy for more than four hundred years [1]. These days it is not used as much as in the past, but you can still find stockfish in a number of supermarkets.
Preparing the fish for cooking takes 2-3 days, and the first step is of course beating it with a mallet :-)
[1] It was in fact considered food for poor people which is quite strange since it was imported from far places.
[1] It was in fact considered food for poor people which is quite strange since it was imported from far places.
> It was in fact considered food for poor people which is quite strange since it was imported from far places.
Well, so was lobster at one point...
Well, so was lobster at one point...
> I thought the step where they beat the fish with a mallet was so wild.
Is it really so wild? Beating on it remains a common way of tenderising meat.
Is it really so wild? Beating on it remains a common way of tenderising meat.
wonder if this was for softening up or killing macro parasites and eggs
It's for softening. The process breaks up the meat fibers both for easier chewing and for absorbing your saliva into the fibers. The latter makes it tastier when you chew it longer.
You can find similar dried fish / squids in Korean and Vietnamese grocery stores. Roast them slightly and they go really well with beers.
You can find similar dried fish / squids in Korean and Vietnamese grocery stores. Roast them slightly and they go really well with beers.
This was our preferred snack on our road trip through Iceland in deep winter. This fish fills you very quickly, doesn't produce the "heavy" feeling in your stomach when snacking on a road trip, and tastes amazing. I was surprised how expensive it was (even for Iceland) but looking at the way they prepare it the price seems justified.
This and thermal pools are the things I miss the most about Iceland.
Wait until you try it with a bit of butter then! I think the protein-to-price ratio makes sense when you compare it to similar products like beef jerky or pepperoni sticks. I'd bet hardfiskur is a lot healthier than jerky and deli meat though, since at the least it has much less salt.
With high-quality nutrient-dense foods I get satisfied and full easily; but when shopping, I often forget to consider this when looking at prices. Thanks for reminding me.
I had dried cod with butter, which was pretty good. I went to a cooking class in Reykjavik and tried Arctic char with butter. It was much better.
It is wonderful with a bit of butter - but someone needs to tell the Icelanders that! Watching them eat it, it's a true exercise in restraint not to ask if they want some fish to go with their butter. I know it's traditional and all, but I don't understand how they can even taste the fish.
At the Dill restaurant they served it with a little home made mayo and what seemed like powdered, brown butter (made powdery with maltodextrin). It was incredible.
I'm surprised that nobody spoke about Portugal. One of most important ingredients in Portuguese cuisine is dried codfish. Note that there isn't codfish in Portuguese waters, it's mostly imported from Norway.
Eating codfish heads is still popular (probably less than decades ago) and it is called caras de bacalhau [0]. Once you try it can easily become one of your favourite dishes. While you can't beat the preconcept you can try bacalhau a bras, the most "easy-going" dried codfish dish [1].
[0] https://duckduckgo.com/?q=caras+de+bacalhau&t=h_&iar=images&...
[1] https://duckduckgo.com/?q=bacalhau+a+bras&t=h_&iar=images&ia...
Eating codfish heads is still popular (probably less than decades ago) and it is called caras de bacalhau [0]. Once you try it can easily become one of your favourite dishes. While you can't beat the preconcept you can try bacalhau a bras, the most "easy-going" dried codfish dish [1].
[0] https://duckduckgo.com/?q=caras+de+bacalhau&t=h_&iar=images&...
[1] https://duckduckgo.com/?q=bacalhau+a+bras&t=h_&iar=images&ia...
I saw the home version of this in Norway near Lofoten where people literally nail a gutted fish to their boatsheds: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UNEA7favnWmQ4TCV9
If you ever have the chance to go up there, do. Its one of the more naturally beautiful places I've been: https://photos.app.goo.gl/d6EpUXrbwjMUZS2v5
If you ever have the chance to go up there, do. Its one of the more naturally beautiful places I've been: https://photos.app.goo.gl/d6EpUXrbwjMUZS2v5
I second the suggestion to visit if you can. I moved to Norway about 6 years back and I'm still amazed at the beauty of things, especially when I get out of the city.
This summer, I'm heading generally North myself :)
This summer, I'm heading generally North myself :)
I tried Hákarl[1] when I was in Iceland and I do not think I have ever felt so betrayed by a food. It really destroyed my interest in trying any other aged fish dishes, but one of my friends loved it.
[1]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%A1karl
[1]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%A1karl
So I went to the Disgusting Food Museum in Malmö(would recommend going!) And they had a little tasting section at the end. Pretty much everything else was absolutely fine, even surstromming was ok, I can totally see myself enjoying it with some vodka and a gherkin. But Hakarl? Jesus I honestly wanted to vomit afterwards. All of the foods there had some redeeming quality - if the smell was bad, the taste was good, or at least the texture was. Hakarl was bad on all 3 counts - smell that could wake the dead, texture that was somewhere between a snot and egg yolk and the tests was just of something that died long ago and was left to rot.
oh wow, I didn't know that was there!
I'll have to go next time I go to Sweden.
Pretty much any fermeted food is going to be an acquired taste and take a while to get used to (if ever).
I happen to love French cheeses but I know some of my foodie friends won't find them enjoyable.
I suspect this to be a natural distrust of the body regarding fermented things, slowly easing the taste into things that the body can recognize as safe. But I don't have any evidence to back that up.
I happen to love French cheeses but I know some of my foodie friends won't find them enjoyable.
I suspect this to be a natural distrust of the body regarding fermented things, slowly easing the taste into things that the body can recognize as safe. But I don't have any evidence to back that up.
>I suspect this to be a natural distrust of the body regarding fermented things
I wonder if the opposite is true, from an evolutionary perspective. Fermentation is a way food remains safe to eat where otherwise it might have rotted or made one sick.
I wonder if the opposite is true, from an evolutionary perspective. Fermentation is a way food remains safe to eat where otherwise it might have rotted or made one sick.
> Fermentation is a way food remains safe to eat where otherwise it might have rotted or made one sick.
OTOH there's a pretty fine line between fermentation and rotting, so individual preference might come down to perceptive difference.
OTOH there's a pretty fine line between fermentation and rotting, so individual preference might come down to perceptive difference.
Hakarl is a very peculiar one though. It's treated and fermented fish, not a dried one, and is well known for being… an acquired taste (https://youtu.be/vTOfhQ_SZEg?t=121)
I was a bit underwhelmed by how moderately off-putting it was...I was led to believe it's the worst thing ever. It certainly smelled pretty awful, but there wasn't a wretch-inducing taste. The icy Brennivín definitely helped.
Not that I'm eager to ever try it again...
Not that I'm eager to ever try it again...
The next upgrade is Skata which in my experience actually gets eaten a lot more. There is Þorláksmessa on the 23rd of December where bucketloads of the stuff get eaten all over the place. It’s perfect if you really want to stink of ammonia in a deep seated way.
This is a really exceptional food. There's a lot of "aged fish dishes" that are perfectly appropriate for everybody.
Hákarl FTW. I got couple Icelandic friends and they said the way to make Surströmming was to dig a hole in the sand, put the fish in, piss on it, and cover it up to let it ferment, to get the legendary authentic smell out of it. Not sure how true that is.
Funny, in Sweden where surströmming is from I have heard the exact same words used to describe the production of Hákarl. But Hákarl is easy to smell and eat compared to surströmming, which is gut-wrenching when you smell it.
I think they wash Hákarl before packaging it while Surströmming is still fermenting in the can until opened. The right way to open Surströmming is to submerge the can in water and wash the fish before serve. Much less smell.
The white fish (code/haddock) version of this is really nice. It's like a fishy version of Biltong only all of the flavour is natural. I didn't like the darker one (which is pictured in the article).
I've not been able to find it outside of Iceland though.
I've not been able to find it outside of Iceland though.
Few people know that "Baccalà" (stockfish) became popular in Italy in a very peculiar way [0]:
"He is known for being shipwrecked in Røst, in northern Norway, in the winter of 1432, and subsequently returning to Venice, where he wrote a report of his travels for the senate. He is also credited with popularizing Stockfish in the Veneto region, where it is prepared as Bacalà alla Vicentina."
[0]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pietro_Querini
"He is known for being shipwrecked in Røst, in northern Norway, in the winter of 1432, and subsequently returning to Venice, where he wrote a report of his travels for the senate. He is also credited with popularizing Stockfish in the Veneto region, where it is prepared as Bacalà alla Vicentina."
[0]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pietro_Querini
I find foods like this interesting because it goes against my instincts of what's safe to eat. Same with most things cured, fermented, etc.
But one thing I was wondering - in an open drying shack like that, how to they keep the bugs away?
But one thing I was wondering - in an open drying shack like that, how to they keep the bugs away?
Probably by doing it when it's too cold out for the bugs. They also dip it in brine to neutralize the pathogens on the surface of the fish.
What I'm curious about is what they do if they put a batch out and then a warm front blows through unexpectedly. Do they take the fish down and stuff them in a freezer until the weather cools off again? I can't imagine they let the whole batch get ruined.
What I'm curious about is what they do if they put a batch out and then a warm front blows through unexpectedly. Do they take the fish down and stuff them in a freezer until the weather cools off again? I can't imagine they let the whole batch get ruined.
I don't think there are many bugs in Iceland so long as you don't fish-shack-up near a lake, ponies, or puffins.
Maybe its cold enough out for minimal bugs? The pics seem to have snow in the background.
The article mentions they dip the fish in brine before hanging up as well. Google indicates other methods of drying fish include sprinkling salt on to keep bugs away.
The article mentions they dip the fish in brine before hanging up as well. Google indicates other methods of drying fish include sprinkling salt on to keep bugs away.
I'm gonna guess netting in the warm months, but honestly, they are far enough north to not worry as much as one would in a warmer climate.
I was shocked by the lack of screens in windows in Norway, and I'm guessing Iceland is the same. The only time it has actually bothered me was on a farm when the cows were in the nearest pasture - there were so many flies!
I was shocked by the lack of screens in windows in Norway, and I'm guessing Iceland is the same. The only time it has actually bothered me was on a farm when the cows were in the nearest pasture - there were so many flies!
Bug season in Iceland is relatively short but very intense.
Similar to the Nordics and Canada.
The black fly is the worst of them imo.
Similar to the Nordics and Canada.
The black fly is the worst of them imo.
The drying season is the first winter months of the year, e.g. February, March, April. Before the flies are back.
We use netting
Anyone know if we can get this in the U.S.?
You can buy it online from some stores - this is the first one that popped up on Google: https://nammi.is/food-drinks1/dried-fish.html
Killjoys at the FDA would probably make it difficult to import.
Oddly enough, fish isn't difficult. Meat, however, is. I can send family in the states dried and canned fish products, but customs will confiscate meat products - much to the disappointment of my brother, who would like to try reindeer sausage.
IIRC, it has more to do with possible disease spreading between continents than anything, though I do think they are a bit ridiculous with their total ban.
IIRC, it has more to do with possible disease spreading between continents than anything, though I do think they are a bit ridiculous with their total ban.
Katsuobushi (the basis of bonito flakes and dashi) is prepared in a similar way. It is available in the US.
Isn't that smoked?
Yes. But it is finished by air drying after fungus innoculation. There is just as much of a pathogen concern.
I certainly haven't tried it myself, but um.. I think that customs usually misses it if you're ever entering the states from Iceland and innocently miss it from your declarations.
I brought a bag of it back through Boston IIRC, about 15 years ago. It wasn't a problem and I'm sure they could smell it through the two layers of plastic bags and my backpack. Had a lot of fun with my hardfiskur - I had to keep it in a big glass jar so the housemates wouldn't be too grossed out by it, but it was a great treat every now and then with a bit of butter as discussed elsewhere.
But, perhaps the customs person just took pity on younger-and-dumber me, who had been out on the town in Reykjavik for about two days, trying to keep up with an Icelandic friend showing off the night life there...
But, perhaps the customs person just took pity on younger-and-dumber me, who had been out on the town in Reykjavik for about two days, trying to keep up with an Icelandic friend showing off the night life there...
I haven't seen this exact thing.
I have seen a variety of dried fishes available in Slavic and Asian markets though, so I'm sure you could find something similar.
I have seen a variety of dried fishes available in Slavic and Asian markets though, so I'm sure you could find something similar.
smoked salmon if you are in the pacific northwest, avoid the thin-sliced stuff though
Hot Smoked is one of my faves even though I can do a mean cured salmon. I highly advise people have PNW hot smoked salmon!
Didn’t realize the TLD for Iceland is .is
One of the most popular snacks in Iceland
is dried fish.
Well, it's not like "harðfiskur" is cheap. 100 grams go for about $8. Icelanders don't eat a lot of fish any more. Almost all of it is exported.
Is the fishing sustainable? I don't know. Probably not.
Is the fishing sustainable? I don't know. Probably not.
There are about 340,000 Icelanders, and Iceland has a 200 mile exclusive fishing zone around its coast.
Such a zone around a single point already is over 120,000 square miles.
So, at less than 3 Icelanders per square mile of ocean, I doubt they could eat all the fish in ‘their’ ocean.
Drying fish is highly sustainable, as it is done on low-tech solar power.
The only concern could be the method of catching fish. I doubt that makes much impact, though, and if it does, there’s bigger fish to fry elsewhere (pun intended)
Such a zone around a single point already is over 120,000 square miles.
So, at less than 3 Icelanders per square mile of ocean, I doubt they could eat all the fish in ‘their’ ocean.
Drying fish is highly sustainable, as it is done on low-tech solar power.
The only concern could be the method of catching fish. I doubt that makes much impact, though, and if it does, there’s bigger fish to fry elsewhere (pun intended)
Soo I've never had fish prepared this way. Where's the best place to buy it in/near SF, or to order from?
My fave spot for interesting dried fish in SF is "New World Market" on Geary in the Richmond district. Its pretty good but slightly confusing if you don't speak russian.
I'll check it out, what should I ask for? Do they call it hardfiskur or is there a Russian word for the equivalent?
Honestly I'd just recommend looking around for it because nobody will help you, they have pretty Soviet customer service. The food there though is soooo gooood.
If you like Sauerkraut go up the street to Seakor too, they make their own oldworld style.
If you like Sauerkraut go up the street to Seakor too, they make their own oldworld style.
Vobla or taranka. Do expect it to be very salty.
AFAIK Vobla is typically one specific fish, namely the "Caspian Roach". That said, its pretty tasty. If you get some there pick up some of the beer as well.
I am impressed with your depth of knowledge of dried Russian fish :-)
Both of these words can refer to either specific species of fish, or to the method of preservation, depending on the region. Whichever word you use, the sales person in that store is sure to rudely point out your mistake. Like you said, the Soviet level of service is part of the experience.
Both of these words can refer to either specific species of fish, or to the method of preservation, depending on the region. Whichever word you use, the sales person in that store is sure to rudely point out your mistake. Like you said, the Soviet level of service is part of the experience.
maybe something like "salonaya reeb?"
How does the fish cure rather than rotting with this technique?
And since it's outdoors, how are insects kept away from the meat?
And since it's outdoors, how are insects kept away from the meat?
I imagine it's similar to dry aging beef. With the right temperature and humidity, you support only bacteria that are safe to eat and you end up with a dry protective exterior before long which allows the fish to begin safely fermenting. You can do this with a surprising number of things. The trick is to have the correct initial conditions which prevents the proliferation of counterproductive bacteria. They also dip the fish in a brine to promote the right bacteria and prevent others from taking hold.
As for insects, it's likely that it's too cold outside (I think the article mentioned that it's kept outside in cool weather). Once it's done doing the cool weather thing it goes inside.
As for insects, it's likely that it's too cold outside (I think the article mentioned that it's kept outside in cool weather). Once it's done doing the cool weather thing it goes inside.
I didnt know dried fish is also known as a protein bar, well heck, the choice for low carb energy bars is really lacking too. Jerky as an alternative eh, good idea!
I really want to try some of this. I'm a fan of Cambodian-style fermented fish, and so this Icelandic fish seems like it might be another option for me.
I have a treat for you, Norske lutefisk. Its one of the, for me, most disgusting things i have eaten. All the side dishes made it bearable.
I've been told that since I'm mostly vegetarian (I eat some fish), I cannot possibly eat lutefisk:
https://youtu.be/E7X6Z_SV-Pc
Luckily, no one in Norway has tried to make it for me yet and my Norwegian spouse says if I try to cook it, he's going to be out of the house a few days. I guess the smell is quite... special.
Luckily, no one in Norway has tried to make it for me yet and my Norwegian spouse says if I try to cook it, he's going to be out of the house a few days. I guess the smell is quite... special.
Apparently, the truth about the lutefisk is that you should never eat the lutefisk:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wTCJ5bqK2A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wTCJ5bqK2A
Well, if it's cooked poorly, it's a gelatinous off-tasting mess. If it's cooked right, that is with enough salt and heat to absorb the excess moisture, it's relatively firm and quite delicious.
Cambodian fermented pork is amaaazingly tasty.
It was way less fragrant than I thought it would be too.
"Enterprising Icelanders have figured out how to salvage the waste from the fish factories. They take the discarded carcasses and heads to hang them on racks to dry and send to Nigeria. There are football fields of hand tied fish heads in the lava fields outside Hafnafjord (near the blue lagoon). Portuguese gave the Nigerians a taste for dried fish heads at and Icelanders are very smart and capitalizing on the protein drain in Africa." https://olsonfarlow.com/editorial-images/polish-worker-hangi...
"The heads are primarily sold to Nigeria, where dried fish heads are considered a delicacy." https://icelandmag.is/tags/cod-heads